Transportation in Luang Phabang

Get in

By plane

Luang Prabang International AirportThe airport is just north of town and has sheduled flights from/to Vientiane, Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Siem Reap. Visa-on-Arrival (good for a 15 day entry permit stamp only) is available at the airport - price is USD31 (payable in USD). Thai nationals do not need a Visa to enter Laos.

By road
Highway 13 connects Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and Vientiane in the south and via Highway 1 to the north. Highway 13 is sealed and in good shape all the way to Vientiane. There were some shootings along this road (between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang) some years ago, including one incident in which two foreign cyclists died in crossfire, but at the moment it appears to be safe.

There are three bus stations, each a little bit out of town, who serve different directions. Tickets can be bought at every travel agent in town for a little surcharge, or at the bus station, or when boarding the bus.

The air-conditioned so-called VIP bus costs 70k Kip to Vang Vieng and 80k Kip to Vientiane, more if booked through an agent (2006 February). Note that the VIP bus has poor suspension, is crowded and sometimes breaks down. Nevertheless, it's still better than the public bus. Also the road is winding and mountainous, and the driver typically of the ying (break) and yang (accelerator) school of driving, considering the middle way to use both the break and the accelerator simultaneously.

The bus ride to Muang Xay (Oudomxai) is done by public minibus only. Big backpacks are carried on the roof. Price for the ride is about 40 kiloKip and it lasts 5 hours on normal conditions. From there you can catch the bus to Luang Namtha, which takes about the same amount of time and money. No need to have a reservation usually, just take care to go early in order to secure a good seat.

By boat
Boats ply the Mekong to and from Huay Xai at the Thai border, stopping in Pakbeng where you can connect with bus and truck heading towards the north-east and the border with China. Slow boats leave several days a week, usually around 08:00. Expect to spend the night in Pakbeng if you're taking a slow boat (the safest option), or to arrive in Huay Xai deaf, shaken and either exhausted or exhilarated from three hours in a speedboat.

"One day comfortable boat" is the new kind of boat travel to Luang Prabang from Houy Xai. Supposedly safe and big, these boats make the same trip in one day. Boats leave every Tuesday and Friday.

To travel on the speedboat (a light canoe with a very powerful engine), a crash helmet and life-jacket are usually provided. The pilot requires a good knowledge of the river, particularly in the dry season, as there are many rapids and rocks. One tall Danish guy found that he could not squeeze up into the position for the ride.

The slow-boat is absolutely packed with tourists - so much so that there are not enough seats to go round. It can be quite uncomfortable, but if there are two of you on your bench, it can be worth one of you taking the whole bench and the other sitting in the aisle for a while, then swapping. More than likely, you'll both be happier in the end. Make sure to bring a book or travel game to while away the hours and swap with other travellers. It costs about 85k Kip to Pak Beng, more if booked through an agent.

Long distance ferries to Vientiane stopped running when Highway 13 was sealed a few years ago, but it may be possible to do the trip by private tourist boat when the water levels are high enough. Read more about fast and slow boats in the section about Laos.

Get around

Wander around town in a bicycle. These are availble for rental for $1-3 per day, depending on the dealer and whether or not you get it through your hostel (usually cheaper). Luang Prabang is a pretty compact place, but with a bike you'll be able to cover more ground and make to some of the lovely hills and temples outside the center. Plus, it's easy to make it back to the river in time for lunch!